Alaska + Canada

So I’m back now from an amazing 2 weeks touring some of Alaska and finishing off in Western Canada so I thought it would be good to tell you how I found it. I’ve decided to break it down day-by-day. Enjoy.

Day 1 – LHR to YCR

We got a taxi down to Heathrow without any dramas and checked in and got through security easily and within minutes. BHX, if your’re listening, you need to up your game!

Sally had bought us lounge passes so we spent some time chilling in there eating and drinking before it was time to go to the gate. The Air Canada flight was fine although delayed taking off. I watched a couple of films. I like AC as their app is really good, it gives you updates where you luggage is, boarding gate reminders etc. The staff are nice and the plane had plenty of room too. The only downside is flying 9 hours and getting there just an hour later (local time) than you left extends your day by 8 hours so the jetlag can knock you about a bit.

After landing in Vancouver, we retrieved our bags and easily found our way to the train into the city. Really fast and cheap @ £6 one-way, how joined-up transit should be. From Vancouver Central it was a 5 min walk to our hotel where we were given a room upgrade with awesome views over the harbour and port. It was a shame we were only there for the night.

We had a walk down to portside, watched another cruise ship arrive and had some dinner before bed and embarkation the next day.

TRAVEL TIP: Turn your roaming data off before you arrive in Canada, @ £9.60 per mb thats just shy of £1k per Gb. Ouch!

Day 2 – Vancouver, BC

Despite being knackered I was awake before 5am and decided I was going out so Sally got up too and we both went for a walk around the harbour area and watched it wake up. The weather was cool but beautiful. We went for coffee then went back to the room to checkout ready for embarking just after noon which meant a bit of a sit and wait in the park in the sun and a bit of people watching. Our boat had arrived and the whole area was buzzing with cruisers leaving the ship and people getting ready to board.

This was my first cruise so embarkation was new. We dropped our bags and seemed to walk endlessly back and forth to check-in then get through security. Queues were inevitable as there were literally thousands getting onboard. We were given our medallions and then we boarded.

If your new like me, it’s a bit overwhelming as you walk on. Too busy, no idea where to go or what to do and no one is there to greet you or advise if your cabin is ready either which I didn’t particularly enjoy. We had a scoot around the ship avoiding the buffet on Sally’s advice then went to the cabin which was ready but my bag hadn’t arrived. The ship seemed rammed to me and despite a nice dinner, I didn’t enjoy it much and echoed all the concerns I had about been on a cruise. Too many people and nowhere to go.

Day 3 – Sea Day

I was up at 4am and in the gym for 5am. The ship seemed empty, yes! but surprisingly the gym was busier than I expected. I did an hour on the bike and 20 mins on the treadmill then went back to the cabin to shower. We went for breakfast and it still seemed busy but had calmed down a bit. The breakfast and the staff though were fantastic.

Today was a sea day so I had to keep myself busy. Spending time outside was hard because it was a misty, rainy day so we walked around getting familiar with the ship and chilled in the cabin for a bit. I put a film on but fell asleep in the afternoon.

Dinner was another great experience and later in the evening we watched a really good show in the theatre before drinks and bed. It was a bit of a lazy day as I wasn’t feeling great.

Day 4 – Ketchikan, AK

We woke to better weather and docked in Ketchikan. Today was an excursion to hopefully see some bears catching some salmon. Disembarking was straightforward and quick. After a bit of confusion (excursion name was different to the tour operators) we met our transport to the boat and spent 30 mins driving up the coast to Clover Pass resort. We hung about here for a short while so I had a quick go at Cornhole before we embarked on an hours boat journey to a salmon fam in Neets Bay which is only accessible by boat or sea plane. We spotted bald eagles on the way which was cool. So many too. When we docked our guide walked us to the viewing area where the salmon embark on their journey back upstream to spawn but its a prime bear spot too.

We’d spotted a bear off in the distance when we arrived but nothing at the viewing area then after about 15 mins a bear ambled down out of the treeline picking at scraps of salmon already caught. Cool stuff but then a mama bear and a couple of cubs popped up from beside us. They all crossed the creek and we watched as mama bear caught a salmon and fed the cubs which were really cute. Amazing to see. We would have loved to stayed longer but we had the 90 min journey back to the boat as it was leaving at 2pm.

We got dropped off back in downtown Ketchikan. It’s not a big place but has a touristy spot called Creek St where all the buildings are built on wooden stilts aside another creek full of salmon. We did a quick walk around the shops and Creek St then it was time to get back onboard and depart. The ship leaves on time. If you’re not there, they’ll go without you. Interesting to watch us leave too.

The evening was simple drinks and dinner before bed again.

Day 5 – Juneau, AK

I was ill today. I was getting worse every day since I’d embarked. I think I’d picked a sniffle up on the plane and the being rundown from the jetlag allowed it to take hold and get onto my chest, so I was a bit grumpy and tired but some tablets helped curb the cough a bit.

Juneau was action packed for us too. Today was a hump-backed whale watching excursion. After another simple disembarkation we were bussed out to ‘…the busiest whale-watching harbour in the world’ where we embarked on a boat and treated to a great talk en-route out into the channels where the whales swim up and down and it wasn’t long before we could see the spurts of water from a group in the distance. Whale watching tour operators work together by radio to inform each other where groups are and adhere to strict rules about how close they can go etc too. so there were other boats around. One was very lucky as they popped up aside it. The really cool thing is each whale has a unique tail akin to a fingerprint so they can be individually identified against a worldwide database by uploading pictures which our naturalist guide did. Some have names and are regulars. I think our guide counted 16 that were recognised.

Other than just watching them swim in groups, we were treated to bubble-feeding which is a learned behaviour where they swim in formation to round groups of herring up then they all rise to the surface to scoop them up. It’s rare phenomenon but amazing to see as not all whales can or will do it.

The weather had been great throughout and continued as we headed back. They like their fast boats in Alaska which was great fun too bouncing over the waves hard at 30 knots.

Excursion over we were dropped off in town so we had a walk around. It was clear the port stops are full of tourist shops. Very samey tbh, but good quality tourist tat. I bought a truckers cap. We had a coffee then joined the queue to have a beer in the Red Dog Saloon, a famous bar that sprung up during the late 1800’s gold rush and was where any deals or disagreements used to be sorted by the bar tender. A great, historical spot with about 5 inches of saw dust on the floor lol. It was packed with tourists doing the same listening to a 90 year old keyboard player singing and doing a bit of comedy. Great fun. We had a beer, some duckfart shots (baileys, kahlua, whisky) and some lunch and carried on around town before getting back on the boat late PM

The evening was a repeat of the night before. A lovely dinner then a seat next to the smaller theatre watching a quiz or game show and people watching with drinks before bed. My favorite tipple was an Alaskan Brewing Co Icy Bay IPA. 6.2% and delicious.

Its worth mentioning the tech onboard. Really cool. They give you an RFID medallion which you can wear on a lanyard (provided) or use a wrist strap or phone mount. When you approach the bar, the till picks it up so the staff know who you are (you supply a pic). On most occasions, no transaction takes place. They just log it. Same with your cabin door. As you approach it recognises you and automatically unlocks. I was really impressed with that feature.

DAY 6 – SKAGWAY, AK

We were awake early again today and watched us dock on the TV in our cabin. The ship has a front facing camera accesible via an app on the TV.

Today was a historic train ride on a line that sprung up out of the gold rush. After the train rolled in next to the ship, we disembarked via tender which was a right pain jammed into a lifeboat waiting to go and then joined a queue of hundreds which honestly looked too many for the train. I was wrong of course. After a short wait we got onboard towards the front and there were plenty of seats with space out the back of the car to watch outside. We trundled away and began the long, steady ascent up the valley tracking the only road in and out of Skagway for the first part. We had a guide onboard narrating the history and sights en-route too. As the train gained height the valley opened up and offered some amazing views back down the valley and in the distance you could see our ship. We tracked the contours of the mountain and when we looped across a valley we crossed a couple of rickety looking bridges. Near the summit we actually crossed the border back into Canada marked by an RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) checkpoint which is just a shed with a flag lol. Not sure if it’s manned at any point or how they even get there. At the top the train loops around and returns on the same line down offering a different perspective of the land as you descend.

After 3 hrs we got off just outside town rather than go straight back to the ship. It was an amazing trip and probably the best train ride I’ve ever been on.

Downtown Skagway is quite small and quiet. It definitely has a wild west vibe. A big wide main street with next to no traffic at all so tourists are free to roam around the tourist shops and bars. We popped into a couple of bars for some food and drink and then walked the 15 mins back to the tender for the faff to get back on the ship. Bit of a pain tbh but its the only way to get on and off here until they fix the dock which was damaged by a landslide in 2022.

We had another lovely dinner with some more people watching and more Alaskan Icy Bay IPA before bed.

Day 7 – Scenic Sea Day #1

The next two days were sea days but what is called scenic crusing which meant we were being taken up inlets to see some glaciers and the accompanying scenery only accessible by boat. I really enjoyed this as the boat had picked up some Park Rangers en-route while we were asleep and they narrated the trip the whole day. You could spend time on deck or watch from your balcony and listen to the narration through the TV. Going in and out and spinning around at the glaciers meant everyone onbaord, whatever side of the ship you were, got a look too. It was incredible. Only two cruise ships are allowed in a day so it wasn’t busy either which added to the remoteness of it. The pictures speak for themselves. Today we went into Glacier Bay and span around at a couple of sea glaciers at least a mile across each made more memorable to see because the weather was so good.

Day 8 – Scenic Sea Day #2

We awoke to great weather again as we chugged up College Fjordd to see the Harvard Glacier. The scenery was amazing again narrated by the onboard Naturalist who talked to us about the area and the glaciers we were passing. We saw some sea sea otters and soaked the weather and in awe at what we were seeing as se span around at the big glacier at the end.

We were due to dock at Whittier at midnight and disembark the following morning so we enjoyed another awesome dinner and another show in the theatre with someone singing rock songs still dining off an American Idol appearance 20 years ago. He was good though to be fair.

Day 8 – Whittier,AK TO Denali, AK

As there were thousuands onboard, diembarkation is done in stages. We still had en early slot @ 7.15am but with announcements at 6am waking you up, it didn’t make any difference to be honest, we still had to get up.

Our bags had already been taken the night before so we only had an overnight bag to take off with us. We were ferried to the theatre and had to wait a while. When we’re kettled in and ushered around in big groups like sheep, thats the bit I hate. Necessary though so people get to where they need to be. We got off and were directed every step of the way onto our train to Denali National Park, which, at 10 hours long, seemed like an arduous trip, it was far from it.

Our train carriage was a double decker with an open glass dome in the top car for viewing and a restaurant underneath. We had another guide narrating throughout too with table service for drinks. We had breakfast onboard and met a couple from Birmingham, Alabama and then went back upstairs and enjoyed the scenery as we made our way 300 miles inland while listening to trivia and stories about the route. The scenery was amazing. Starting on the coast we hugged the coastline before heading inland via Anchorage then a steady climb to 2000m+ where the landscape changes from rain forest to alpine tundra. You see the odd homestead with only train access and blows your mind some of these people live there through -40 deg winters. The coolest bit though was seeing a grass runway behind a row of big houses with bush planes parked like cars. Using a plane like a car to get about is common in Alaksa, a testament to how remote it is I guess.

When we arrived, it hadn’t felt like 10 hours or a transfer. It felt like an excursion. Again we were seamlessly directed onto our next bus for the couple of miles to Denali and our hotel which was a room in a log cabin style lodge. We were 300 mile further north now so it felt a bit fresher than when we left.

We ate in Fanny Q’s, the bar on site, had a few more beers then retired for a decents night sleep as I was feeling much better now.

Day 9 – Denali National Park, AK

We awoke to a fresh morning. Todays excursion was into the park itself on the only road in and out. Reception was busy with tourists again with endless streams of busses turning up but they seemed to have a good system in place that made it run smoothly ensuring everyone got on the correct bus.

As we left, our bus driver doubled as our guide. We were only a couple of miles from the Park Road entrance. From here it’s an 18 mile tarmac road to a park checkpoint that only cyclists and busses can pass or cars with a pass that can only be obtained by lottery to limit them. The tarmac stops too and becomes a gravel road for another 75 miles.

We climbed into the park and it wasn’t long before we saw our first moose. You can tell wildlife is about when groups of cars are parked on the roadside. Or the ‘riff-raff’ as our driver described them lol. After the checkpoint we stopped at a viewpoint to hear a talk from a local, indigineous Alaskan about life there. Interesting. The views though. Amazing in the vastness of the landscape but the autumnal colours were at their peak and like nothing I’ve ever seen before. The pics are amazing but don’t do it justice.

We only got about 20 miles into the park. Not enough time to go any further. I assume it just gets more remote and more quiet. When we got back to the hotel we jumped on a shuttle bus back to the Park Visitors Centre then another bus to the Park’s Dog Kennels where they look after the parks working Alaskan Huskies. We got to meet them as they sleep outside in boxes and then we were treated to a dog sled demo. Two busses back to the hotel again and it was time for food so we had a burger in the other on-site bar/restaurant before a bit of a walk and bed.

Day 10 – Denali, AK TO Fairbanks, AK

Today was another transfer day by coach with a paddle boat trip and northern lights trip later that night. Sally packed as much in as ahe could this trip! Like all of our drivers so far the coach driver gave us a bit of narration en-route about places we passed through etc. It helped break up the 2hr journey and we stopped in Nenana en-route too so we could stretch our legs and visit a couple of shops.

In Fairbanks we were dropped off at the Paddle Boat which was huge. Coach loads were hanging around in the gift shop ready to get onboard. In there Sally and I tried the -40 deg experience which offers you a chance to feel what it’s like at -40 degs which is common in Alaska during the winter. Its basically a fridge. You walk in and have a pic taken but it does take your breath away and we were only in there about 30 secs.

Shortly after that we embarked the paddle boat which can accomodate 800+ people. Now this wasn’t just a simple boat ride up and down the river. It was that but they have screens and cameras all around the boat and a narrator introduced us to the captain who was the 4th generation of the family-run business. The we heard from a guy via a live link taking off in a bush plane on the river next to us. Next it was famous dog musher and her dogs on the river bank where we saw her take a ride with the dogs pulling her on an ATV with drone footage. Then we stopped at a museum in the style of a native’s village and they showed us how they caught and smoked fish and hunted and created clothes from their prey’s pelts and skins. Really interesting. On the return leg the original wife of the first captain of the first boat from the 1950’s waved to us from the shore, she was 100 years old. It was a really engaging, enjoyable trip. Loved it.

From this boat it was onto a coach to our hotel which had a bit of a queue. In Denali, we were given our room keys before we arrived so we didn’t have to check-in. We thought it would be the same here but sadly not. We dropped our bags and went straight to the restaurant for food then the bar waiting for our Northern Lights trip at 10pm. In the bar we chatted to a local professor who had moved there 3 years ago. She loved it despite having to work 2 jobs to make ends meet because it’s so expensive. We had some banter with the bar tender too who was also working 2 jobs to pay off his mortage so he could buy a boat and move to the Bahama’s!

At 10pm we were picked up in the dark and bussed out to the middle of nowhere. We were introduced in a Yurt to the head dog musher on-site who explained how Northern Light forecasts work and what to look for. We then went outside and spent a few hours in the cold looking up. It was a bit cloudy but you could clearly see them with the naked eye but its the sensors on cameras that really pick the famous colours out. As the night wore on it clouded over more and it was hrad to see them. We enjoyed a bit of a campfire and a chat with a coach driver then at about 1.30am they called it and we were taken back to the hotel for a short sleep before an earlyish start in the morning for a flight to Seattle.

Day 11 – Fairbanks, AK TO Seattle, WA

Today was a transfer day, flying from Fairbanks to Seattle because there are no direct flights to Calgary our ultimate destination.

Fairbanks airport was very quiet but the flight in was delayed which meant we left late. The flight was about 3 hours long with great views of the Western Canada coastline, Vancouver and downtown Seattle as we approached with the impressive Mt Rainier in the background.

I liked Seattle airport. Despite being big and busy we got our bags quickly, passport control was quick and a transfer to our hotel via shuttle bus was just a call away and a 5 min drive. We checked in then went next door to a bar for some food and watched the baseball on TV with a beer after some delicious prime smoked beef brisket. It wasn’t cheap with the 20% tip but that’s the USA for you.

Day 12 – Seattle, WA TO Calgary, AB

We had a noon checkout so we took advantage of that and enjoyed some downtime in the room in the morning. Our afternoon flight was delayed again but once we were in the air it only took 70 mins to reach Calgary. When we landed our friends Polly and Craig collected us and drove us back to theirs in Okotoks on the outskirts of the city. We filled our boots on Chinese take away then sat outside chatting into the night before bed.

Day 13 – Okotoks, AB TO Red Deer, AB

In the morning we walked to a coffee shop to get some breakfast and coffee and Jacob, there eldest, joined us who is now a fully-fledged Canadian cop. In the afternoon we chilled for a couple of hours talking to him about ‘copping’ in Canada, working in the harsh winters and houses to buy.

Late afternoon we drove to Red Deer to see Bryan Adams in concert on the night. We passed Red Deer the last time we visited Canada in 2022 en-route to Edmonton. It’s a couple of hours by car from Okotoks which is considered nothing in Canada. It’s a straight run too, literally. The freeway is pin straight mostly, bends are rare. When we got there in the afternoon we dropped our stuff at an Airbnb then hunted out a restaurant for dinner but everywhere was full so it was A&W for a burger. It was a good burger too.

We were only a few mins from the concert venue, an ice rink and the home to Red Deer Rebels. Nice and easy to get in. It wasn’t a huge venue but a good, intimate crowd. We were at the back but Bryan started with a couple of acoustic numbers on a mini-stage right in front of us before walking upto the main stage. For the next 2 hours he rocked. Really enjoyed it and was far better than I expected. I would definitely see him again.

Getting out was easy enough then a 5 min drive home to bed

Day 14 – Red Deer, AB TO Okotoks, AB

We had no plans for today, just a road trip somewhere which took us out west via Rocky Mountain House and Nordegg to Abraham Lake. We stopped for a quick pic here then we stopped again shortly after for food and fuel just before Saskatchewan River Crossing at David Thompson Resort. All unplanned, the best way.
I had a brisket sandwich and a lovely local beer which tasted like an ice-cream soda. A group of cyclists left when we there and left a bag outside so Craig did his good deed for the day driving after them to return it. We got back on the road and turned south back towards Calgary and stopped off at Peyto Lake and Bow Lake which were new for Polly and Craig. Always a site to behold aswell as all the scenery along the famous Highway 93.
It was a long drive back, we got back after 8pm and went to a pub for some dinner before home late and bed. I never thought we’d get to see the lakes this time, so it made a great end to the holiday.

Day 15 – YYC TO LHR

Our flight home wasn’t until the evening so Polly and Craig took us to a local establishment in Black Diamond called the Chuck Wagon, famous for it’s breakfasts. And you can see why. Queues to get in and loads of delicious food and coffee which set us up for the day.

On the way back we stopped off at a supermarket to pick up some genuine Candian Maple syrup then we chilled for a couple of hours in the afternoon watching Netflix before they dropped us back at the airport. There were some tears when we parted but the overnight flight home was on time and arrived early, just after 10am.

Our bags were quick, passport control was smooth via the e-gates (BHX take note again!) and in no time we were back in the taxi home, getting back about 2pm.

Thoughts

What an amazing experience. I’ve seen things I didn’t think I would ever see and will probably never see again.

Cruising – It was my first cruise. The staff were absolutely fantastic, the food and service were exemplary. I didn’t enjoy embarkation day. Just letting you on with no guidance for a first-timer seems odd considering how good there service is after that. I found it too busy and frustrating. From then on it got better. The signage to get around the ship I thought was poor. The ship layout was odd, the lifts took forever. The ports were ok. Too many tourist shops for me, you have to seek out the fun and history yourself or do an excursion. I hated the tender boat but that was just one port and you have no choice.
Despite all that I would definitely cruise again. It wouldn’t be a first-choice like a beach holiday but depending on the itinerary and size of the boat I would do it again, particularly as a group.

Alaska – I’ve seen some jaw dropping scenery and the people are really nice. It’s quite expensive but that’s the exchange rate and tipping culture for you lol.

Canada – Still my favorite place with the bonus of friends there too. I’d go back in a heartbeat. Thank you Polly and Craig for having us x

If you fancy any part of a trip like this speak to Sally, she’s the travel expert and the dream holiday builder, I just turn up and enjoy it 😂

Hope you enjoyed that!

Adios